Post by agustinfranco on Apr 12, 2007 4:15:23 GMT 7
I just got turned on by discussing some aspects of nep cultivation.
myth 1: Rajahs can live under most conditions but you must provide a temperature drop to at least 10-11 Celsius about 50F. Information is partly right, because your plant will still die if the day temperatures go above 27C during the day for several days in a row (at least 3-4 weeks). In other words, temperature drops are needed, but day temperatures must be controlled too for successful cultivation of this plant. Villosa is the same.
Information is partly right, because your plant will still die if the day temperatures go above 27C during the day for several days in a row (at least 3-4 weeks).
Gus- Are you saying this part is a myth? Because it is. My largest rajah plant (nearly 3 feet dia.) routinely gets day temps of 28-31C spring through fall. In these temp ranges I keep the humidity around 85-95%. Night temps average 10-14C. N. rajah is very tolerant of temperature differentials provided the humidity is very high and all other componnents of culture are excellent.
Post by Rainforest Carnivores on Apr 12, 2007 5:09:53 GMT 7
I am not so sure about this as well. My rajahs are grown warm almost the year around. While pitchering well only during our coolest months, they don't die away. I have since moved many of my plants to areas where rainfall is greater than my area and they seem to be thriving better than at my place. So humidity and rain are pluses for growing this species successfully. Its interesting though that N. burbidgeae does surprisingly well for me as does the N. burbidgeae x edwardsiana.
Post by phissionkorps on Apr 12, 2007 11:01:09 GMT 7
In the winter mine gets about a constant 58°, while in the summer it gets about a constant 80°. I think all the other cultivation aspects I have done particularly well with, as the plant does quite well for me even without these nighttime drops
Med school is KILLING ME. If you want me to see something, PM me. I don't read everything on here like I used to.
Post by agustinfranco on Apr 12, 2007 18:40:16 GMT 7
Thanks for your replies. Considering the amount of time most of your plants go above 31C Philcula may not be enough to see the desired effect (Do temperatures in your region go above 31C for more than 6-8 weeks in a row?). 31C in general was an underestimation from my part. Rajahs do seem very resistant to heat at the beginning, but this is an accumulative effect which I believe plays a role in most neps deaths. 35 to 38 C is more what i meant.
Anyone can grow villosas in lowland conditions, but have we asked ourselves for how long we can keep these alive?. They will not die within a week after purchase but more or less 4-5 or up to a year. If you can control the temperatures during the day meticulously, one will be able to see the difference. I am by no means implying that these are impossible to culture as some of you have been successful doing it, but again we can not compare culture conditions unless we have a detailed account of at least 2 years of temperature and humidity measurements for successful growth.
Michael: in your case, if you can grow hamatas, you can grow rajahs so your environment is not a typical one, but a special one. Phissionkorps: it'd be nice to know how long have you had your rajah growing under lowland conditions. In general, if your plant can live two years after you acquire it, under such conditions, then you have an exceptional clone. Another factor to consider is that a large plant and a very small plant in general are more resistant to adverse conditions than a small or medium size plants. (neps i mean) Finally, it'd be nice to do a survey to see how many people can grow rajahs in temperate, subtropical, alpine, or tropical environments (inside greenhouses, I mean) I usually hear the expression "slow death" when it comes to suboptimal neps cultivation conditions.
Post by nepsaroundthehouse on Apr 12, 2007 20:59:05 GMT 7
this is interesting to me because I've seen the effects of trying to grow lowlanders in highland conditions but not the reverse. Sunbelle had told me that over time his highland plants or hybrids grow very slowly or stop pretty altogether. The leaves become smaller and the plant really doesn't do anything and then dies. I hope I'm somewhat quoting him right. So I would be very interested in all of you typical lowland growers what highland plants look like after 6 months or so in typical lowland conditions.
I found that rajahs like somewhat shaded conditions as opposed to full sunlight outdoors. When I had them in full sunlight they burned on the edges and didn't like it. Probably the heat and humidity difference. They seem much happier under the shade cloth.
I have a friend who grows a seed grown Rajah in almost full sunlight in his greenhouse. I think that all Nepenthes can be grown in full sunlight as long as you let them adjust slowly step by step. With exeptions of plants like Northiana maybe. I have had ampullarias outside in summer in full sunlight. Though it took about 2 months to adjust it. And it still got small leaf burns on every leaf. But It still thrived. I dont grow Rajah yet personally but maybe it has something to do with if its TC or seedgrown.
Post by nepsaroundthehouse on Apr 13, 2007 21:12:07 GMT 7
I'm saying that rajah can grow in full sunlight but needs more humidity than I can provide adequately in my environment. It does better under shade cloth with lowered humidity and the temperature doesn't get as hot on the leaves. Ampullaria has too papery leaves for me to grow outside. Maybe I could try a hookeriana but I have a feeling that wouldn't do well either.
Post by Rainforest Carnivores on Apr 14, 2007 2:19:12 GMT 7
While I wouldn't call my N. rajahs gigantic proportions, they seem happy and make pitchers regularly. I have moved most to an area (still low elevation) that gets more rainfall as my area is too dry-windy for it.
I am still somewhat believing that fertilizers help in making plants adjust/grow/adapt to warm climates. Here is an upper pitcher of N. eymae x veitchii h/l.
Here is a growing stem even with a spike of seed pods attached.
A stem wth axillary shoots from each leaf axil.
As the main stem lengthens, the dormant side shoots begins to grow.
Until a true stem emerges.
These are happy plants by the looks of their growth and pitchers.
thatoneplantboi: Hey guys, I'm new to growing nepenthes, I'm getting a mini indoor greenhouse to grow them in. What kind of light should I use for them? Also, if you could provide a link to a product, it would be very much appreciated
Oct 5, 2017 10:16:29 GMT 7
borneo: Yes, they work superbly. But you don't need expensive lights, cheap ones work well too.
Sept 2, 2018 14:34:57 GMT 7
mylesg: i havent checked in here for a while, why does it seem all the CP forums have lost their once strong activity? the trade/sale section used to be so active and now its a ghost town. where is everybody hanging out these days for a strong online CP community?
Dec 9, 2018 3:15:01 GMT 7
mylesg: Happy holidays to everyone out there!
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lance: Everyone left the forums and moved to facebook groups.
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etiennecancio: perhaps we can try to revitalize the old forums? i always found them to be much more convenient than facebook groups at least hah
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mylesg: i refuse to abandon this place, i am posting in my grow thread with many photos and always there to answer any questions just built new grow room and tons of pitcher shots!
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vidyut: hey mylesg. glad to hear that. Love this forum. Facebook can't organize knowledge like this. Will participate as much as I can.
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mylesg: just posted ton of new pics in my thread!
Feb 9, 2020 3:40:25 GMT 7
bonfield: If you think the situation on this forum is bad, you should see what that those creeps Justin Dunning and Kurtis Herperger(Victoria Butterfly Gardens), Willy Chung, and Lloyd Gordon did to the Canadian forums: www.butterflygardens.ca
Jun 1, 2021 7:14:40 GMT 7