I am very curious as to how great the peltier system works,you say it brings it down to 50 at night! I have hard enough time getting my tank down to 20 degrees C at night, thats waaaay to warm for highlanders! . I am interested in where the peltier system came from i cant seem to find a website for it. I have an airconditioner hooked up to mine but it isnt where the temps shouldbe i have lost quite a few expensive neps now and i just want a system that works well. so i can buy more highland, ultra highland neps. not to mention the peltier system looks totally cool and takes up little space.
algae is only a problem when i over fertilize and it grows in the sphagnum. It doesnt have time to grow on the glass because the circulation fan helps keep that from happening. I have noticed some white mold growth in there, when i see it a spray it down with a diluted physon20 solution and that takes care of it for a long time(only noticed it once). It works on the algea overgrowth in the sphagnum as well but can also kill the live sphagnum if too much is used.
H€y sean, I just had a couple more questions, you mention you use treated forest moss? how do you treat it so it doesnt die? Also the picture of your peltier the 2 fans are the heat dissipation side right? do you have a picture of your peltier installed in the tank ? and the pink board you use to insulate whats that called? i think they have it at a hardware store by me. I am assuming your DC power supply is under your tank? if i can save up enough for the system i think i will build a little cuppboard under the tank to house it. You also say that you use it on another terrarium what grows in there? and would you happen to be able to reccomend a thermostat for terrariums to hook into the peltier to keep temps at a certain level .. thanks so much for all of your help, sorry for the million questions!
I treat the forest moss first by soaking it in water and rinsing, I then let it soak in a miticide mix to kill any spider mites that are present. I rinse, then i hang it up. Yes the picture with the two fans is on the outside of that tank. The side with a single fan is the cooling side that is inside the tank. You can use a refrigerator thermostat to control the temp to have it shut off at a certain temperature at night. I dont use a thermostat for temperature control. It isnt needed for either of my setups. The coldest it will get is around 40*F if my room temperature is at 65*F. The reason for this is because of the large viewing area's on both tanks that are only insulated by glass. Here is a picture of what it looked like with just the pink extruded polystyrene foam you can get at any hardware store like lowes or menards and spray foam i started to use for the backdrop and here is a picture of the underside of the cooler in the tank My power supply is under the tank. I have a few in there as well. heres a truncata X trusmadiensis I also have several rajah's , a tenuis, mulensis, hamata vine, Q&K truncata, a few others in there. This setup i just made a couple months ago
If the plug for the fan was insulated with caulk then the condensation effect wont short it out. I have the extra fan on there for circulation, i leave that one on all the time, its just a small metal massey fan I caulked everything on it except for the moving parts to make it water repellent. The same will have to be done to the fan on the cooler
Im sorry if its a stupid question im having a really hard time visualize what you mean by caulking everything on the fan except for the moving parts? sorry i just really dont get what you mean. I think i will line my tank with the white styro foam as well, seems like the best way to keep the cold in! . I am also tinking of building a box type riser on the top of the tank to house the peltier horizontal across the back side of the tank, and it will allow a little more height and i am thinking of ditching the 175 watt mh, and putting in 4' t5's . or maybe i will figure a way to use both. maybe the 175 in the midle and 2 t5's on each side, enclosed in a glass, or plexiglass box insulated with more foam on the outside, and some hinges on the sides for acess. It all seems like a massive undertaking! i will need to aquire a thermo stat for the day and night cycle to wire into it as well. There is a small neat on on ebay for $30, i may get and mount it in the lid. I am so excited to get going on the tank, but im waiting for payday to get the peltier, thermostat, and everything else... grrrr
caulk anything that would be affected by water, the transformer, bare wires, coil, bare metal,so it is water repellent. If you notice in the pic of the cooler and the fan you can see were i missed a couple spots and need to touch it up as it is starting to rust. Keep in mind after you caulk it needs to dry for at least a couple days. The fumes is harmful to plants, the leaves will start turning brown, so dont add plants until its completely dry. You can get a Metal halide/T5 combo light setup easy. Most coral reef light fixtures have both
Hey Sean, I finally got a paycheque at work ( paid once a month... ) but i contacted the guy and i will try to get the tec kit. I am thinking of building a plywood "cap" on my tank with hinged doors, the idea is to have a bunch of t5's and my 150 W metal halide in the lid, with inslulation and a reflector, then have the tec mounted on the side of the lid, caulked and insulated as well, and i want to have a 4 inch fan built into the other side of the wood hood. and two hinged doors on the front to get in the tank for whatever. I am also planning on getting a zoo med hygro therm to controll day and night temps, and a reptifogger to humidify the tank as needed. I am so excited to get going on the project. I hope your plant are doing well, and i will certainly update once i start buolding the tank top. Thanks again for the help!