Fish bowls work quite nicely. Place some moist soil at the bottom. Push it in a little bit, but not tightly. Spread seeds and then sprinkle some shredded Sphagnum moss over the seed and spray this mix down on to the soil surface. Seal the fish bowl and keep it in the shade. You'll get germination in about 4 to 6 weeks. The seedlings can keep growing until they are large enough to be transplanted.
One thing I've found good is mixing some of the old soil into the new soil. I don't boil the old soil, but do let it get washed for quite a while and then dried out for about a month before being reused.
These are some really bad companies, all shells of Plantron Inc., so don't order from them unless you want small and dead plants they don't want to refund:
Farmer Seed and Nursery
Four Seasons Nursery
House of Wesley
Richard Owen Nursery
How do garbage companies like these stay in business, ripping people off year
Post by pmrorquideas on Feb 27, 2015 10:48:55 GMT 7
I noted that a particular web site suggests that you make a "tea" or infusion of spent coffee grounds to " fertilize " you Nepenthes seedlings. Bung stench! While coffee grounds can adjust the pH downward from tap water, and are good in compost bins, they supply such meager nutrition to Nepenthes, either by foliar spray or to the roots, that it is not worth the bad smell of steeping the spent grounds....and a waste of fresh grounds, to boot! If you have water with a fairly low dissolved solids test, a dead nose, and don't have a healthy compost pile, then, by all means go ahead and follow such silly procedures for imaginary plant nutrition. There are better ways to adjust pH of your water. Look them up! BTW, I recall that in Japan it used to be common practice to water Cymbidium orchids with weak (spent leaves) tea. Many species of plants appear to have a growth stimulation from tannins, and certainly tea has tannins to spare. Perhaps (merely my speculation, here), the tannic acid is useful to adjust pH, such that the plant so watered can better absorb nutrients. Many (but not all) plants absorb nutrients better in the pH 4.5 to 6.8 range, a few at higher pH, and some down as low as 3 pH. I believe that most, but not all Nepenthes do OK in the range of 4.5 to 6.5. I have had trouble with N. ampullaria at pH higher than 6.8 (mors, mors, say the requiem for the N. ampullaria), and in the U.S. most tap water is higher than 6.8 because at higher than neutral pH the lead of solder tends to leach from pipe solder joints more slowly...it is a human health issue, not one chosen for the health of your plants. I have had N. species germinate in media with tds much higher than 500, but not very well, and not many species (only grow species). I believe that N. spectabilis was one that just germinated on old orchid potting medium hit by mist from humidifier, but the mist of tap water inhibited most species from germination. On the subjuct of seed age: I have had N. ampullaria seed that was at least two and three months in my posession at room temperature in paper envelopes, and shipped to me from outside the country (frankly, I think that the USDA reg's are poorly conceived and executed) geminate in 90 - 110 days after sowing on coir, on old sphagnum that had been used for other purposes, then soaked and dried, moistened before sowing Nepenthes seeds), and on Canadian peat that had not been rinsed, but had been sprayed with fungicide. I have had other seed that was sown, moistened, then dried out in the flat by accident for 1 month germinate 60 days later when drenched with rainwater. I do know that some species tolerate for lowest storage temperatures, but I do know that some folk have frozen Nepenthes species' seeds for up to three years and had good germination. I had another flat of seed dry out in the hottest and brightest spot of my screenroom, unattended for at least a month, and show a couple seedlings, and then quickly (within 4 days) show more when misted. The spot that savannah species sat in reached about 105 degrees C before I "rescued" found it again behind an orchid plant. It seems to me that "experts" with success with a few species may not be able to tell you anything useful about how to grow another species, especially if your conditions, including especially light flux, water quality, and media are mismatches with their conditions, and if your species of seed are different from those within their experience. Thanks for your patience with my prolix style. Cumulo
Huzzah, over-thinking things is a common practice in growing Nepenthes, especially with sprouting seeds.
Though I do think that I have noticed a nice boost in growth after the coffee treatment. Whether it's mostly placebo or not, I don't know, but it seems to be an easy and convenient (especially if you are a coffee addict), method of stimulating larger growth.
Nepenthes (edwardsiana x hamata) x (bicalcarata x edwardsiana)
I have always had great results from standard NPK pellets mixed into the soil, but I should add that I have twice daily misters, and without them the neps can die.
On a side note I have tried a few soils and have found that spag/sand/NPK and African violet/peat/NPK work best, drosera also grow in both, I have had many D.serpens, burmanni and adelae spring up in the nep pots, as well as the odd orchid, mostly cymbidium.
Old thread, but have some seeds coming in, so read, and it triggered some thoughts...
I have always had problems when I cook sphagnum. I normally just sprinkle seeds on soaked sphagnum and transplant them into fresh tray cells as they germinate - I find the survival rates better if they don't send roots into the medium they germinated in, particularly if germination took a long time and the containers are shallow. Less problem in taller containers - with at least two inches of media above water in tray. But cooking sphagnum in any way - microwave or boiling or pressure cooker, etc starts off well, but soon gets problems.
For me, the trick to not getting fungus is air circulation. I never cover my pots. If the seeds are old or I spot fungus on any seed, I go through the sowed seeds to ensure that seeds aren't touching each other and take out any that have fungus. Spraying very dilute H2O2 helps too - but this isn't often. Uncovered seeds rarely get any major fungus problems in my conditions.
I notice Sunbelle grows her plants in hot weather and is against cooking the sphagnum as well and am wondering if our temperatures play a role. Microbes grow faster in hot weather, so perhaps the cooked sphagnum gets contaminated faster for us?
That said, I'm going to try soaking the seeds and using perlite in the bottom - perhaps that will be better for the seeds in shallower containers...
I don't fertilize a lot, but am thinking of doing it more often.
plantguyty1: I'm looking for pollen.
Dec 31, 2016 23:50:46 GMT 7
fredp: I'm trying to add a PDF file to a new thread but it doesn't seem to work thru the "Add Attachment" button. Can someone help?
Jan 8, 2017 0:08:27 GMT 7
plantguyty1: Does anybody need pollen? I have N. Miranda it's the first time it flowered for me so I do not know if its sterile or a good candidate. Is there anybody with an active female that would like to give my pollen a shot?
Feb 19, 2017 1:19:37 GMT 7
siravi: im looking for seeds, anyone?
Mar 15, 2017 13:41:04 GMT 7
samu0945: I'm looking for N. Aristolochioides
Apr 2, 2017 8:48:30 GMT 7
thatoneplantboi: Hey guys, I'm new to growing nepenthes, I'm getting a mini indoor greenhouse to grow them in. What kind of light should I use for them? Also, if you could provide a link to a product, it would be very much appreciated
Oct 5, 2017 10:16:29 GMT 7
borneo: Yes, they work superbly. But you don't need expensive lights, cheap ones work well too.
Sept 2, 2018 14:34:57 GMT 7
mylesg: i havent checked in here for a while, why does it seem all the CP forums have lost their once strong activity? the trade/sale section used to be so active and now its a ghost town. where is everybody hanging out these days for a strong online CP community?
Dec 9, 2018 3:15:01 GMT 7
mylesg: Happy holidays to everyone out there!
Dec 26, 2018 0:23:13 GMT 7